You’ve likely heard the term “forever chemicals,” which has been making headlines in sustainability news in recent years. And even if you’re not exactly sure what it means, if you assumed that the pairing of the words ‘forever’ and ‘chemicals’ doesn’t sound like something great for us or our planet, you’d be right.
PFAS, which stands for per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances, are a group of synthetic compounds that don’t break down easily, earning them the name “forever chemicals.” PFAS belong to the generic family of perfluorinated chemicals, or PFCs. They’re used in the manufacture of many consumer products, such as food packaging, cookware, cosmetics, and clothing.
PFAS are so enduring because they contain one of the strongest chemical bonds known — the carbon-fluorine bond. This bond makes them extremely resistant to heat, water, and oil, a seemingly perfect function for performance products like non-stick pans, smudge-proof makeup, or water-resistant apparel. But this comes at a cost. These chemicals are just as resistant to breaking down in nature, allowing them to build up in soil, water, animals, and even our bodies for years.
Forever Chemicals in Apparel
Due to their stain- and water-repellent qualities, PFAS have been added to textiles to boost clothing performance since at least the 1960s. Often the main component of a surface treatment or of a membrane (a thin layer within a fabric that stops water passage), they’re particularly common in outdoor and activewear. One study found that nearly three-quarters of products labelled as water- or stain-resistant tested positive for forever chemicals.
And every stage of these forever chemicals’ lifecycle is harmful to our environment. From manufacture to wear, wash, and disposal, their toxicity is emitted into the air and our water.
However, safer, eco-friendly alternatives are out there — and we use them here at tentree.
Our Responsible Outerwear
We’re all about protecting the world we play in. So naturally, it’s a priority that the manufacture, use, and eventual disposal of our tree-planting products don’t do harm to the environment.
While many brands rely on PFAS for their performance outerwear, we’ve chosen to take a different route. Since 2018, we’ve been working to eliminate intentionally added PFAS, and by 2020, we had fully transitioned away, ahead of most industry standards and legislation. Our waterproof men’s and women’s Nimbus jackets, for example, feature a polyester-based, waterproof, breathable fabric combined with a C0 durable water-repellent (DWR) finish. Together, these elements effectively repel water and keep you dry and ventilated, without relying on harmful chemical treatments.
Because PFAS include thousands of synthetic substances, and trace contamination can sometimes occur through things like manufacturing equipment, we use accredited third-party lab (SGS) testing and follow one of the strictest protocols in the industry, the AFIRM Restricted Substances List (RSL), to make sure our products meet high safety and environmental standards.
So, instead of forever chemicals in our outerwear, we use fluorocarbon-free water-repellent treatments and finishes, as well as membranes or laminates made of the same material as the shell fabric. This makes processing our products at the end of their life simpler and easier on the earth.
We’ve even worked with recycling partners and local labs, such as Sixone Labs, to test how easily our recycled polyester can be processed at the end of its life. Is it cost-effective? Not always. But it’s possible — and that’s not something that can be said for garments treated with intentionally added forever chemicals, which are far more difficult to recycle due to their toxic components.
We also partner with SuperCircle, a company that consolidates and processes returned textiles, through our Circularity program. SuperCircle works with hubs like Sixone that recycle polyester using a chemical process. Through this process, the polyester in our garments is dissolved back to its molecular level. And as for the other components (like the zippers, labels, and snaps), while other brands might need to remove these trims before recycling, ours are recyclable, too. The result? A cleaner, more efficient end-of-use process that doesn’t leave behind toxic residues.
Staying Ahead of Ever-Evolving PFAS Regulations
As the awareness of PFAS grows, so does the list of chemicals that fall under this category. With new substances being added all the time, it’s important to stay up to date in an industry that’s always evolving. At tentree, we stay ahead by focusing on sustainable sourcing from the get-go. This means avoiding finishes, coatings, and membranes that typically rely on PFAS whenever possible.
Despite our best efforts, there’s always the chance that trace amounts of PFAS could sneak into the process due to factors beyond our control, like what happens in the facilities where our products are made. For instance, if the sewing needle or the feeder’s foot of a sewing machine used a lubricant containing PFAS and left stains on a garment, trace amounts of PFAS could be detected in testing. This is why, while we avoid PFAS in all forms, we say “no intentionally added” to reflect the realities of complex global supply chains — and to keep our commitment to transparency.
Partnering with third-party testing labs keeps us informed of the latest regulations and standards. We also test our products regularly to ensure compliance with certifications like Bluesign, GOTS, and Oeko-Tex, which are amongst the most stringent in our industry, helping us stay up to date with evolving sustainability standards and avoid the use of harmful chemicals wherever possible.
How to Keep Out Forever Chemicals
While PFAS are pervasive, there are actions you can take to reduce your exposure and minimize their impact on the earth. And it all starts with supporting brands that are committed to using alternatives to intentionally added PFAS, like clothing made with eco-friendly materials and finishes. Also, look for companies that prioritize end-of-life solutions, like recycling or circularity programs.
Staying aware of what’s in the products you buy and choosing safer options can make a big difference — not just for your own health, but for the planet’s, too.
Wear your impact. Browse our made without intentionally added PFAS outerwear here.
